Rebecca's International Kitchen

The first time I visited Buenos Aires, my husband and I were living in Mar del Plata, 5 hours south of the Capitol. We took the bus, checked into a hotel, and tried to see as much of the Big City as we could in 3 days. On our long list of things to do was to visit the Recoleta Cemetery. We took a taxi to the cemetery, spent a couple hours looking around, found Eva Duarte de Perón’s family tomb, and then took a taxi to our next stop. Recoleta Cemetery–check.

Even months after we moved to Buenos Aires, when I thought of Recoleta, I simply thought “where the cemetery is.” However, one beautiful Saturday, I finally stumbled back upon Recoleta. I loved it so much that I stayed all day and returned the next day as well. I discovered how much more there is to Recoleta, how much there is to see and do; I also found that the numerous parks make it a great place to just lay back on the grass and not do so much as well. Now, I find myself returning time and time again. Recoleta has become one of my favorite barrios (neighborhoods) to spend a sunny weekend day exploring.

I mention this experience, not to say that you shouldn’t visit tourist attractions such as the Recoleta Cemetery (in fact, you should definitely visit it), but to show how easy it is to focus on hopping from sight to sight so that you miss out on experiencing the neighborhood itself. Instead of moving so quickly amongst the different barrios trying to see the entire city in one day, spend an entire day in one neighborhood so that you can really take it in.

It’s also good to know that some parts of the city are virtually dead during the weekend (i.e. the city center), while others that were quiet during the week take on new life. Recoleta is such a place; quiet and calm during the week, lively, fun, and full of tourists and locals on the weekend. For the best experience, try to time your visit so that you can explore Recoleta on the weekend.

Here are some of my favorite things to do, as well as my favorite places to eat, in Recoleta. This list is constantly growing as I experience more of this great barrio. (I’ve included a custom map of things to do and places to eat at the end of this article.)

What to Do in Recoleta

Cementerio de la Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetery)

Internationally recognized as one of the world’s most beautiful cemeteries, the Cementerio de la Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetery) is the final resting place for the most well-known names in Argentina. Besides being the final resting place for Eva Duarte Perón, the cemetery holds many of Argentina’s presidents, writers, artists, scientists, and other important figures. The 14-acre cemetery holds over 6,000 mausoleums laid out in blocks, so that walking around the cemetery feels like walking around a small city. A map or a tour guide is necessary to find your way around.

To learn more about the interesting stories behind those buried in the Recoleta Cemetery, I highly recommend the blog www.recoletacemetery.com/. My favorite story is that of young Rufina Cambaceres; urban legends are told that she was buried alive (read the full story here). There are many more interesting tales of those buried in Recoleta on this well-researched and interesting blog. Also offered on the website are English walking tours and extensive guides (available to purchase as a pdf or iPhone app).

Cementerio de la Recoleta
Junin 1790, Buenos Aires 1116
www.cementeriorecoleta.com.ar/
Tel: (5411) 4804-7040
Open every day from 7:00 a.m. to 5:45 p.m.
Free admission
Free English tours are offered on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11:00 a.m.
Maps can be purchased at the entrance (AR$15).

Plaza Francia

After visiting Recoleta Cemetery, take a stroll through Plaza Francia, the beautiful park just outside the cemetery’s entrance. If you’re able to visit on the weekend, you’ll find the park bustling with venders selling a wide variety of handicrafts in the Feria Plaza Francia (Plaza Francia Fair) which takes place every Saturday and Sunday. This is a great place to shop for local art, jewelry, and clothing. It’s also a great place to spread out on the grass, rest a while, and people-watch.

Besides handicrafts, vendors sell a variety of food and drinks, including grilled meats, fresh fruit cups, freshly squeezed orange juice, and churros! I have to make my husband promise not to let me buy more than 1 chocolate coated churro per trip (or I’d surely eat 10!). There’s usually live music or other forms of entertainment going on as well.

Feria Plaza Francia
Av. del Libertador & Pueyrredon
Open Saturdays and Sundays from 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.

Buenos Aires Design

Buenos Aires Design is the large yellow and tan building located beside Plaza Francia and Recoleta Cemetery. This mall is dedicated to design and home decor. It’s a great place to see Buenos Aires’ most modern designs; it also has several restaurants, cafés, and most importantly, clean bathrooms! Figure out how to get to the top terrace and you’ll be rewarded with great view of the park below.

For expats or those looking for a bit of the U.S., there’s a Hard Rock Café and a Starbucks inside of Buenos Aires Design. There’s also a Café Martinez, which serves great Argentine-style coffee and pastries. There are several restaurants on the terrace, including Camping and Un’ Altra Volta (see pictures and reviews under “Places to Eat in Recoleta” later in this article).

Buenos Aires Design
Av Pueyrredon, Buenos Aires
www.designrecoleta.com.ar/
Tel: (5411) 5777-6000

Museo National de Bellas Artes

Not far from Plaza Francia stands the Museo National de Bellas Artes, which houses the largest public collection of art in Latin America. Immerse yourself in European art, with works by Rodin, Rembrandt, Goya, Manet, Monet, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Degas, and many others. Several rooms of Argentine works of art by Pueyrredón, Berni, Della Valle, de la Cárcova, Sívori, Cándido López and others are also on display.

Here are some pictures of my favorite works in the museum. Above: “The Kiss” by Rodin, and “The return of the Indian raid” by Della Valle. Below: “The Blute-Fin Windmill, Montmartre” by Van Gogh, “The bridge of Argenteuil” by Monet, “Two dancers yellow and pink” by Degas, “Woman of the sea” by Gauguin, “Portrait of a young woman” by Rembrandt, and “Young woman in green hat” by Renoir.

This is a truly impressive museum to visit. Although the information in the museum is in Spanish, their website is available in English: www.mnba.gob.ar/en. Visit the website and click on “Collection Highlights” to see some of the most important works housed in the museum’s permanent collection. Select a work to read a detailed description of the artist and the selected work.

Museo National de Bellas Artes
Av. del Libertador 1473
www.mnba.gob.ar/en
Tel: (5411) 5288-9900
Open Tuesdays to Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays from 9:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Closed on Mondays
Free admission
Free English tours are available Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays at 12:30 p.m., and on Saturdays at 2:00 p.m.

Plaza Rubén Dario

Next to the Museo National de Bellas Artes is Plaza Rubén Dario, which is known for its grassy lawns, reflecting pools, and Paseo de las Esculturas (Sculpture Walk). The Sculpture Walk currently displays large metalwork sculptures by Carlos Regazzoni. There are three sections of his work: the aircraft fleet, the Indian raid, and the animals (including ostriches and alligators), all made from old car parts, tractor parts, tools, and other pieces of scrap metal. Adults and kids alike will love walking around the park, looking at these incredible works of art.

Plaza Rubén Dario
To learn more about Carlos Regazzoni, visit his website: www.regazzoniarts.com/.

Floralis Genérica

Opposite Plaza Rubén Dario is the Floralis Genérica, also referred to as La Escultura de La Rosa (The Sculpture of the Rose). This enormous sculpture is in the United Nations Plaza. Created in 2002, the flower has mechanical parts that once opened the flower at sunrise and closed it at sunset. Although these parts have since been disabled, many people still make their way to the sculpture in the evening to take photographs at sunset and to enjoy the surrounding park.

Floralis Genérica
Av Pres Figueroa Alcorta y Austria
Plaza of the United Nations

Where to Eat in Recoleta

Camping

I love eating outside, especially on a beautiful Buenos Aires day. Camping is the perfect place to grab a great lunch while visiting Feria Plaza Francia on the weekend. Situated on the terrace of Buenos Aires Design, Camping is a small, box-looking restaurant, resembling a food truck without wheels. They keep their lunch and dinner menu pretty short: beef milanesa, tortilla de papas, salad, hot dogs, sandwiches, soup, and a vegetarian dish. However, you can be sure that all the dishes, though simple in keeping with the camping theme, are cooked to perfection.

Grab a glass of beer on tap, a portion of tasty beef milanesa or tortilla de papas, and a seat at one of Camping’s picnic tables. Log into their wi-fi to request your favorite song, then enjoy your meal at one of the most relaxed spots in town.

Camping
Av. Pueyrredon 2501, Recoleta
www.facebook.com/CampingBA

Un’ Altra Volta

Right beside Camping on the Buenos Aires Design terrace is Un’ Altra Volta, one of the best heladerías in town. With great helado (ice cream), coffee, chocolates, and pastries, you can be sure to satisfy your sweet tooth here.

A word of warning: Argentines eat a lot of ice cream, so the portions here are the largest I’ve ever seen. I got the smallest size available and it was huge! (See picture below.) Don’t worry, though; I somehow managed to eat every last bite.

Un’ Altra Volta
www.unaltravolta.com.ar/
Tel: (0810) 888-6582

Buller Pub & Brewing Company

If you’re still hanging out in Recoleta in the evening, head over to Buller Pub & Brewing Company. This microbrewery makes its 6 beers on the premises. Order the sampler to taste them all: Pilsen, Hefeweisen, Honey Beer, Oktoberfest, Indian Pale Ale, and Stout. If it’s a nice night, grab a table outside on the patio. The menu is huge, with a lot of appetizers, pizzas, and pretty good pub food.

Buller Pub & Brewing Company
Pte. Roberto M. Ortiz 1827
bullerpub.com/
Tel: (5411) 4808-9061
Open every day until midnight

La Biela

If you feel like having a traditional Argentine merienda of coffee or tea and medialunas (croissants), go to La Biela, right across from the Recoleta Cemetery. This café has been around since 1850, one of the first establishments in the area. It has a rich history involving racing cars (La Biela means “connecting rod”). It is also well known for the many famous people who once frequented it’s many tables, including Argentine writers Jorge Luis Borges and Adolfo Bioy Casares (who can still be found at the front table). With room for 400 people inside and 300 people outside, you’re sure to find a table (though it does start to fill up around 5 p.m.).

Be sure to take time to walk around the café to look at all the old photographs. To read more about the history of La Biela, check out their website (or read the inside flap of the menu).

La Biela
Av. Quintana 600, Recoleta
www.labiela.com/
Tel: (5411) 4804-0449 / 4135

Did I leave any of your favorite restaurants or things to do in Recoleta off my list? Please tell me! I’m always eager to visit new sights and restaurants.

Planning a trip? Check out all my articles about Buenos Aires here!