One of my favorite things to do, wherever I am in the world, is eat. I enjoy cooking, but I take special pleasure in dining at great restaurants. Palermo, a neighborhood in Buenos Aires that is known for its many restaurants, is where I am fortunate enough to call home. With so many great restaurants and cafés within walking distance from me, I feel like I’m living in foodie paradise.
While there are restaurants and cafés all over Palermo, my usual stomping grounds are Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho, so many of the cafés and restaurants I recommend are in those areas. However, I’m constantly exploring new areas and eating at new restaurants. I add to this list as I find new places, so keep checking back! (I’ve included a custom map of things to do and places to eat at the end of this article.)
Where to Eat in Palermo
Great Restaurants for Dinner in Palermo
Don Julio
On my last night in Buenos Aires, you will find me at Don Julio eating Buenos Aires’ best steak dinner. While there are many parillas in Buenos Aires, Don Julio consistently ranks among the top for superior food, wine, and service; it’s certainly my favorite. Relatively inexpensive for how nice the restaurant is and how delicious everything is, the value you get at Don Julio cannot be beat.
My perfect meal at Don Julio begins with nice Malbec and an appetizer: grilled provoleta (provolone), chorizo (sausage), or morcilla (blood sausage). Then, a tasty ensalada (salad) or papas fritas (french fries) to accompany the bife de chorizo (sirloin steak) or entraña (skirt steak). Of course, I have to save room for the chocolate mousse dessert, the best I’ve had in Buenos Aires. I’ll be honest, I tear up a little thinking about the day I have to leave Buenos Aires and Don Julio.
Don Julio
Guatemala 4691 and Gurruchaga
Palermo Soho
Tel: (5411) 4831-9564
Open daily 12:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m.
Reservations highly recommended
Las Cabras
If you’re looking for a parilla that’s casual, fun, family-friendly, inexpensive, and really tasty, Las Cabras is the perfect place for you. Las Cabras is also open early for dinner, which is great for those who haven’t yet adjusted to the Argentine late-night eating schedule. The restaurant is constantly buzzing, its many tables filling up after 8:00 or 9:00 p.m.
One of the things I love about this restaurant is that they give you a cutting board as a plate. That’s when you know you’re in for some serious meat-eating. You can also watch the kitchen and see how large-scale parillas work. Since you’re having a casual evening, try the house wine; it’s really good and comes in a pingüino (penguin) decanter.
The portions are enormous, so keep that in mind when ordering. An order of meat comes with a side salad and is enough for two people if you order a side of verduras a la parrilla (grilled vegetables) or papas fritas (french fries) to go with it. I almost always order entraña (skirt steak). However, a good option if you want to try several cuts of meat is the mixed plate that comes with entraña (skirt steak), vacio (flank steak), and asado (short ribs), definitely enough meat to share between two people. If you still have room for dessert, be sure to try the arroz con leche (rice pudding) with cinnamon.
Las Cabras
Fitz Roy 1795 Esq. El Salvador
Palermo Hollywood
Tel: 5197-5301/5303
Open Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays 12:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m.
Open Fridays and Saturdays 12:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.
Closed Mondays
Walk-ins only; arrive early (before 8:00 p.m.) to ensure a table
Las Pizarras Bistro
If you want to celebrate a special occasion with delicious food in an intimate atmosphere, I highly recommend Las Pizarras Bistro. Las Pizarras, which means chalkboards, gets its name from the chalboard menus that cover the walls.
I’ve tried the conejo (rabbit) with romesco sauce and the cordero (lamb) steak; both were delicious and unlike anything I’ve had in Buenos Aires. I also loved their crème brule with carmelized pears. Ask your waiter for a recommendation based on the current menu. I feel certain you will love your dining experience at Las Pizarras.
Las Pizarras Bistro
Thames 2296
Palermo Soho
www.laspizarrasbistro.com/
Tel: (5411) 4775-0625
Open Tuesdays to Sundays 8:00 p.m. to closing
Closed Mondays
Reservations highly recommended
Fukuro Noodle Bar
If you’re staying in Buenos Aires for more than a week, you might get hungry for something besides grilled meats. I mean, you can only eat steak so many days in a row! There are plenty of other choices in Buenos Aires if you know where to look.
My favorite non-parilla restaurant is definitely Fukuro Noodle Bar, an excellent Asian-fusion restaurant owned and operated by awesome husband/wife duo Matías and Vanessa.
The whole menu is delicious and inventive. I recommend trying a bit of everything. Start with an order of steamed dumplings, an order of steamed buns, and an order of ramen noodles per person. I always order extra avocado or mushrooms in my ramen; you can even get extra noodles or meat if you’re really hungry. After all that, if you’re still hungry for more, you can ask for another order of dumplings or steamed buns. Also, don’t forget about dessert. Vanessa’s latest creation #FernetTheGreat is a yummy ice cream sandwich.
Fukuro Noodle Bar
Costa Rica 5514 (between Fitz Roy & Humboldt)
Palermo Hollywood
fukuronoodlebar.com/
Tel: 54 1532900912
Open Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays 8:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.
Open Fridays and Saturdays 8:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m.
Closed Sundays and Mondays
Walk-ins only; arrive when they open to ensure a seat
Cash only
Osaka
When I first moved to Buenos Aires, I tried many sushi places before eventually giving up all hopes of eating great sushi while in Argentina. I made a pact to forego sushi, and stick to beef (something Argentina does well) instead. While talking about my sushi disappointments in BA, a friend recommended I give sushi one more try at Osaka. My stomach was not prepared to be so impressed.
Osaka is a Japanese/Peruvian fusion restaurant that specializes in ceviche, sushi, a wide range of Japanese dishes, and incredible drinks. Try any of the ceviche appetizers and you’re sure to be delighted with the bold combinations and flavors. Can’t decide? The Degustación de Ceviches (Ceviche Tastings) comes with 3 different choices so you can sample a variety. From the sushi bar, try a couple rolls such as the Maki Furai or the Tiger Roll. Then, if you still have a little room for a main dish, try the Wagyu Ishiyaki, thinly sliced kobe beef that you cook on a hot stone at your table.
I have to say that everything I tasted made me happy; I wore a huge grin the entire night. The only thing keeping me from going to Osaka on a weekly basis is the hefty price tag. Expect to pay about AR$200 for most items on the menu, which isn’t too bad for a special occasion (or with a great exchange rate). However, it’s hard to swallow the idea that one sushi roll costs the same as a steak. Although, what a sushi roll! I highly recommend visiting Osaka for an incredible dinner and a terrific dining experience.
Osaka
Soler 5608
Palermo Hollywood
Tel: 4775 6964
osaka.com.pe/
Open Mondays to Sundays from 12:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Open Sunday to Thursday nights from 8:00 p.m. to midnight
Open Friday to Saturday nights from 8:00 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.
NOLA
My tastebuds were shocked by the incredible cajun flavors being cooked up at NOLA, a new gastropub in Palermo Viejo. What began as a closed-door, multi-course cajun restaurant in 2012, is now a casual gastropub open to the public. NOLA is the perfect spot for hanging out with a group of friends while dining on some good ol’ Southern home cookin’.
Arrive early for Happy Hour (from 5:00 to 8:00 p.m.) when you can enjoy a pint of Bröeders craft beer for a steal. Order a plate of pollo frito (fried chicken), gumbo, or sandwich clásico (crispy chicken sandwich) at the bar and wait for your name to be called. Most importantly, don’t forget to load up on some homemade spicy sauces at the spice station. If you still have room, try the dessert of the day.
NOLA
Gorriti 4389
Palermo Viejo
www.nolabuenosaires.com/
www.facebook.com/NOLAbuenosaires
Open Wednesdays to Mondays from 5:00 p.m. to midnight
Closed Tuesdays
Walk-ins only
Cash only
Burger Joint
Whenever I’m craving a huge, juicy burger (which is often), I head to Burger Joint in Palermo Soho. One of the things I love about Burger Joint is that they keep the menu small. Here’s what they have: burgers, fries, and beer. Sometimes, there’s no need for anything else.
As far as burger choices go, they also keep the options minimal:
- La Clasica (The Classic) with cheese, tomato, lettuce, onion, pickles
- La Mexican (The Mexican) with guacamole, jalapenos, hot sauce, tomato, red onion and cheese
- La Jamaican (The Jamaican) with Pineapple, Bacon, hot pepper, onion, cheese and curry-ketchup
- La Bleu (The Blue) with blue cheese, caramelized onions, sun-dried tomatoes and arugula
I can personally recommend all of them, though I’m partial to La Jamaican. If you’re not a fan of rare hamburgers, definitely tell the cashier that you want your burger cooked bien cocido (well done).
Burger Joint
Borges 1766
Palermo Soho
https://www.facebook.com/BurgerJointPalermo
Tel: 4833-5151
Open Mondays from 6:00 p.m. to midnight
Open Tuesdays to Sundays from noon to midnight
Walk-ins only
Cash only
Great Restaurants for Brunch in Palermo
Restaurant UCO at the Fierro Hotel
If you want an excellent brunch with extraordinary service in Buenos Aires, try the restaurant at the Fierro Hotel. This restaurant serves a delicious multi-course brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. Start with your choice of coffee drink, orange juice, a shot of fruit and veggie juice, and the cocktail of the day, along with a cup of fresh fruit, a yogurt parfait, mini scones, and a bread basket with jams. Then, try a selection of homemade cold cuts, including bondiola, lengua, and pate. And that’s just the beginning!
For the main course, you have two choices. Try the chef’s special Desayuno Completo Irlandés (Full Irish Breakfast) of sausages, black pudding, bacon, baked beans, fried egg, and grilled tomato, or try the chef’s rift on Eggs Benedict with a poached egg on a bed of potato farl, wilted spinach, and hollandaise sauce, topped with in-house smoked trout. Finish with a pear and walnut dessert, coffee, and mini alfajor.
While I’m not sure if this is the menu every weekend, I know that whatever comes out of the kitchen at the Fierro Hotel is sure to be superb. They also serve a 3-course breakfast on the weekdays, lunch, and dinner.
Restaurant at the Fierro Hotel
Soler 5862
Palermo Hollywood
https://fierrohotel.com/restaurant-uco/
Tel: 3220-6800
Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Open for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays
Olsen
Olsen is one of my favorite Sunday brunch restaurants. If you’re craving American-style brunch, then I recommend ordering from section A, which is like a set menu, but includes many different options: coffee or tea; toast, medialunas, or muffins with marmalade and butter; orange or grapefruit juice; homemade yogurt with granola; ham and cheese or fresh fruit (go with the fruit); omelette or scrambled eggs; and a glass of wine, champagne, Champagne cocktail, Aperol Spritz, beer, or soda. Sound like a lot? It is. My husband and I order one and share. On the rare occasion that we’re still hungry, we order an extra muffin.
There’s also a section B that has some more brunch/lunch options such as salmón gravlax, grilled chicken, ham, and bratwurst. I’ve not yet tried anything from section B, but the dishes look good if you want something hardy. Olsen is also well known for their specialty cocktails, and though they serve dinner, I’ve only ever been for brunch.
Tip: Be sure to call and make a reservation for Sunday brunch, as Olsen fills up fast. Also, tourists on Trip Advisor often complain about the service, but I’ve never had any trouble during brunch. Be direct in your order, don’t be afraid to flag down any of the staff (not just your waiter), and understand that Buenos Aires service is not like in the States. Go around 11:00 a.m. for the best Sunday brunch service.
Olsen
Gorriti 5870
Palermo Hollywood
Tel: (5411) 4776-7677
Open Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays 12:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m.
Open Fridays and Saturdays 12:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.
Open Sundays 10:30 a.m. to 1:00 a.m.
Closed Mondays
Magdalena’s Party
If you’re looking for places to have a tasty brunch, you’re in the right neighborhood. Magdalena’s Party is a restaurant and bar in Palermo that attracts brunch-deprived expats like a magnet. More than likely, the waitress and the large group of students sitting next to you will speak English. Some days, it’s really nice to hear some English, but most days, I’m just there for the pancakes. And the bottomless mimosas.
I’m trying to work my way through the whole brunch menu including french toast, breakfast burritos, and bagels with salmon and cream cheese. The Magdalena’s Cali Coast Omelette is pretty awesome, even though it’s not really an omelette. It’s actually a crepe filled with scrambled eggs, black beans, ham, cheese, and pico de gallo stuffed inside. The salsa, guacamole, and sour cream that topped it made this Texan extremely happy. Magdalena’s Party also serves a really good, spicy Bloody Mary, though I think I’ll stick to the bottomless mimosas.
Magdalena’s Party
Thames 1795 (esq. Costa Rica)
Palermo Soho
magdalenasparty.com/
Tel: (5411) 4833-9127
Open Tuesdays and Wednesdays 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 a.m.
Open Thursdays and Fridays 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 a.m.
Open Saturdays 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 a.m.
Open Sundays 12:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.
Closed Mondays
Great Restaurants for Lunch in Palermo
Real Revolucion
There are a growing number of Mexican food restaurants in Buenos Aires; unfortunately, like the numerous sushi restaurants, most of them are not so great. However, promising restaurants such as Real Revolucion have started popping up, serving delicious Mexican favorites and spicy sauces by a chef who’s actually from Mexico.
Order homemade corn chips and guacamole to start. Then, follow with an order of chicken, beef, or vegetarian burritos or quesadillas. Customize your dish to your liking by choosing a few extra ingredients such as caramelized onions, avocado, or extra cheese from the menu. Wash everything down with a cold beer, and you’ve got the perfect lunch or dinner.
Real Revolucion
Honduras 5143
Palermo Soho
www.realrevolucion.com/
Tel: 2073-9902
Open Mondays and Tuesdays from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to midnight
Open Thursdays to Sundays from 1:00 p.m. to midnight
Closed Wednesdays
Sudestada Restaurant
If you’re near Palermo Hollywood and need a good place to grab lunch, stop by Sudestada Restaurant for some tasty Asian food. They have a really good prix fixe lunch menu (Monday-Friday) that includes a drink, soup or salad, an entree, and an optional dessert. They give you a paper menu that you select your options with a hole-punch. There’s also a picante (spicy) option that’s actually got some kick (you can get the spicy peppers on the side if you prefer).
I work just around the corner, so I find myself going there quite often. It’s actually pretty tasty as far as Asian food goes in Buenos Aires and is one of my favorite lunch spots. I recommend ordering the limonada (lemonade) with ginger and mint. The salad with peanut vinaigrette is always good (much better than the watery and tasteless soup). The Thai Noodle dish is a really good vegetarian option, but my favorite is the Bo Xao. This beef and vegetable wok dish is really tasty and comes with a side of perfectly cooked white rice. Finish up with the tapioca and banana dessert.
Tip: I only recommend Sudestada Restaurant for their weekday lunch special, not for dinner. The dinner menu is completely different and very expensive. Get there when they open at noon to ensure a table and faster service.
Sudestada Restaurant
Guatemala 5602
Palermo Hollywood
Tel: (5411) 4776-3777
Open Mondays to Saturdays 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. to closed
Closed Sundays
La Panera Rosa
Not far from Plaza Serrano is La Panera Rosa, a super cute restaurant that specializes in crêpes and waffles. Whether you’re in the mood for something sweet or savory, La Panera Rosa has the perfect crêpe or waffle for you.
I tried the yummy chicken pesto and mushroom crêpe. Its small size deceived me, as I could hardly finish eating the entire dish. It was a really filling meal and got me through the rest of the day. They also have a variety of sandwiches, such as the bagel with salmon and cream cheese sandwich. This is a great stop for a tasty brunch, lunch, or dessert.
La Panera Rosa
Jorge Luis Borges 1685
Palermo Soho
www.facebook.com/panerarosa
Open daily 9:00 a.m. to 2:00 a.m.
Great Cafés in Palermo
Full City Coffee House
I need a Full City Coffee House rewards card for how often I find myself there. The coffee served at Full City is incredible, beginning with the Colombian beans roasted by the proprietor, then ground and poured perfectly by the expert baristas on staff. These guys know what they’re doing, and you can taste it.
The breakfast and lunch dishes made at Full City are really good as well. They make my favorite burger in Buenos Aires. The beef patty is deliciously seasoned and yummy . Then, you get to choose up to 5 toppings, including grilled onions and sun-dried tomatoes. Even the bun is superb. They also have a great selection of salads and sandwiches.
Full City Coffee House
Thames 1535
Palermo Soho
https://www.facebook.com/fullcitycoffeehouse
Tel: (5411) 4833-6774
Open Tuesdays to Fridays 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Open Saturdays 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Open Sundays 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays
in Bocca al Lupo Caffè
Oh what a happy day it was when I found this incredible café just one block away from my first apartment in Buenos Aires. Even though I no longer live down the street, I continue to come back to in Bocca al Lupo Caffè at least once or twice a week. This Italian café serves incredible coffee, and even more incredible desserts. One look at the dessert display is all it takes to set my sweet tooth off. They also have Nutella filled medialunas (and if they don’t, they’ll make you one). Something sweet along with a macchiatone (a stronger, smaller latte) puts me in my happy place.
in Bocca al Lupo Caffè also serves great brunch and lunch. The brunch options are really big (enough for two to share). The lunch options are normal, single portions; salads, pastas, and classic Italian dishes. Every weekday they also serve a lunch special that’s very reasonable priced and always tasty. The lunch special includes an entree, soda, coffee, and dessert (for a little extra).
in Bocca al Lupo Caffè
Bonpland 1965
Palermo Hollywood
Tel: (5411) 4774-3692
www.facebook.com/inboccaallupocaffe
Open Tuesdays to Fridays 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Open Saturdays and Sundays 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays
Lattente
Just down the road from Magdalena’s Party is Lattente, another great place to grab an expertly crafted cup of coffee. Both the cappuccino (left picture) and latte (right picture) are really good. The seating inside Lattente is pretty limited, but they’ll make you’re coffee to go if you’re on the move.
Café Lattente
Thames 1891
Palermo Soho
Open Mondays to Saturdays 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Open Sundays 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
Birkin Coffee Bar
I first tried Birkin Coffee Bar due to tales of incredible coffee and a likeness to Stumtown Coffee Roasters in New York City. Having recently been to Stumtown, I thought I’d see how Birkin Coffee Bar measured up.
When I first arrived, I tried to compare Birkin to Stumtown, but found that my memory was a bit hazy. I searched for a few photos of Stumtown NYC online, looked around me again, and my jaw dropped. So many details, from how the waitstaff was dressed to the light fixtures, counter, shelves, and backsplash were all the same as Stumtown Coffee Roasters. I felt like I was back in New York.
Lunch was in full swing, and I was hungry. Birkin has a nice menu of sandwiches and salads; I tried the sándwich de langostinos (shrimp sandwich), which was perfect. The sándwich de lomo (Tenderloin sandwich) and brunchy egg dishes also looked great. It was amazing to see what the chefs were capable of making in such a small kitchen (situated behind the counter).
Most importantly, the coffee was delicious, expertly made. Along with the cappuccino, I tried a freshly baked alfajor from the display. I savored every bite. I recommend visiting Birkin Coffee Bar for a great lunch, superb coffee, and tasty dessert.
Birkin Coffee Bar
República Árabe Siria 3061
Palermo Botánico
Tel: 4843-7470
www.facebook.com/birkincafe
Open Tuesdays to Fridays from 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Open Saturdays to Sundays from 10:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Closed Mondays
Great Bars in Palermo
Victoria Brown Coffee & Bar
I’ve recently started getting into making cocktails at home, so when I heard about the Victoria Brown Coffee & Bar, I couldn’t wait to check it out. I showed up before they opened at 8:55 p.m. (very uncool, I know). The first one in line, I excitedly rushed in to find a small coffee shop. A bit confused; I love coffee, but I was expecting cocktails here… Then, the hostess stepped out from behind a hidden door to let the small group that had gathered in the coffee shop into the steampunk-themed bar.
Since I was primarily interested in the cocktails, I chose a prime seat at the bar where I watched the bartenders expertly crank out drinks all night long. (I highly recommend sitting at the bar if you’re interested in the art of making cocktails; however, if you’re on a date or with a large group, you should opt for a comfy couch instead.)
Not a big cocktail drinker? No worries. Many of the bartenders speak English well enough to be able to recommend great drinks based on customers’ likes and dislikes. I tried La Provance, a cocktail with lavender infused gin, honey, ginger, and lemon; it was tart, slightly sweet, and smelled divine. For a bit of a sweeter drink, try the pink Mary Pickford, with rum, maraschino liqueur, pineapple juice, and grenadine.
For a one of a kind cocktail, try the bar’s El Cobre, with rum, sherry, and pear brandy. What makes this cocktail special is the preparation of the glass: American Oak is burned by a torch for a couple of minutes; then the glass is placed on top of the wood to collect the smoke. The customer then pours the drink into the glass, which has taken on the aroma of the smoke.
All the tapas dishes I tried were excellent, though a little pricey if you’re trying to make a meal out of them. I recommend eating somewhere else first, then going to Victoria Brown for drinks and a few snacks. In particular, I loved the avocado rolls, crispy shrimp, rabas (fried calamari), and quesadillas. The chocolate dessert was also fantastic.
Victoria Brown Coffee & Bar
Costa Rica 4827
Palermo Soho
http://victoriabrownbar.com/
Tel: (5411) 4831-0831
Open Wednesdays to Saturdays from 9:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
Negroni Bar
In my quest to learn more about cocktails, I realized that I had never tried a Negroni cocktail (gin, vermouth rosso, and Campari, garnished with an orange peel). So, what better place to try a Negroni cocktail than at my favorite bar in Palermo Hollywood, Negroni Bar. I tried the Negroni Barmaid, which is a typical Negroni, but with an infusion of cinnamon and a smoked vanilla bean. It smelled like Christmas, and quickly became one of my favorite cocktails.
I also love cocktails with sparkling wine, so the Passión Martini is another of my favorites. This slightly sweet and mildly tart cocktail is made with vanilla infused vodka, maracuya (passion fruit), lime juice, and sparkling white wine.
This small, Italian bar is usually packed at night, but it is a great place to try different cocktails if you can snag a table. On warm weather nights, you can take your drink to the upstairs terrace.
Negroni Bar
El Salvador 5602
Palermo Hollywood
www.negronibistrobar.com/
Tel: (5411) 4771-4878
Open Mondays to Saturdays from 6:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.
Did I leave any of your favorite restaurants or cafés in Palermo off my list? Please tell me! I’m always eager to visit new restaurants.
Planning a trip? Check out all my articles about Buenos Aires here!
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